Wednesday, 3 July 2013

grandma's house

On the way to my grandma's house.
 This morning mom and I went to my grandmother's old house to do a quick clean cause Petro is coming tomorrow. He always stays in the old house in town.

This house is where my mother was born and grew up. Its in the old town of Parikia on Paros. I've already mentioned that my grandfather was a fisherman and my grandmother was a seamstress. They raised 7 children in this old house.

The house to the four daughters but mom said she was happy to sign her share over so we don't have a share in the old house. However while my grandparents were alive we spent many years staying there during our summer holidays.

It holds a lot of memories for me.
The narrow cobblestone street I know so well, grandma's house is the one behind the overgrown vines.
The old house is a typical one in the old town. At least for the struggling classes. It has hugely thick stone walls, a cement floored downstairs room and a timber floored upper storey. Downstairs is one big room which was kitchen, living space, dining room, and bedroom. I'm not sure what the upstairs looked like when mom was a kid, but when I was growing up it was one large room with a dining table in the middle and 4 single beds around it, 2 small rooms, one with a single bed and one with a double bed.

The front door to grandma's house. So many of the old doors have similar curtains in the windows.
My grandmother would roll over in her grave if she knew I was sharing photos of the house in such a mess, but she's long gone and it belongs to my aunt now. Besides, the house has been empty since last summer. We can all excuse a bit of a mess.

The downstairs room as seen from the staircase in the back.
There are two ways to get upstairs. An outside staircase made of cement and an inside narrow timber one. Unfortunately the inside one's been replaced. All that remains of the original is the trapdoor and ceiling. My aunt is nothing if not handy. She's fixed, tiled, rennovated and updated the house within an inch of its life. Luckily she appreciates the past so she's not into throwing out the old things.

The narrow steep stairs and the trapdoor. Made for very short people.
At the top of the stairs is the tiny store room which I've mentioned before. I used to sleep in the little room the trapdoor opens into and this little storeroom was opposite my bed. When I couldn't sleep I'd go sit in there, in the breeze from the open window, and look through my grandmother's old fashion magazines.

The tiny store room. The cement sink and the cupboard underneath with a cute curtain. Love the greek curtains.
Mom tells me this was originally a storeroom. Then when my oldest aunt (Xeni) was being courted, they made it into a small kitchen so they could give her the upstairs part of the house to live in. She didn't marry any of the young bucks chasing her and the tiny kitchen ended up a store room again.

What's odd is that the sink in this little room (and the downstairs one for that matter) is cement. I'd never thought about that before.

The ceiling in the store room has limed white beams and bamboo above the old chimney.
A small cupboard in the little store room.
A cupboard over the trapdoor in the room I used to sleep in.
Another cubbyhole cupboard in the wall with a cute curtain door.
Downstairs my aunt has kept things pretty much as my grandmother had them, with the addition of a bathroom and toilet in the tiny store room, a new fridge and some new wardrobes. She sleeps on my grandparent's old bed at the far end of the room. Its a cast iron bed with brass details.



I like my grandmother's little bed 'doily' to protect the brass.


Naturally there are tons of photos, some in newer frames, some in really interesting old ones.

 



Mom's family minus one.
 One thing I really really want (well one of the many things) is one of these old door handles. They used to be everywhere but so many people have thrown out the old doors and the handles with them. I keep asking and no one has one for me. 

If only I could find where people throw their old stuff!

This one's a little cat!


You already know I'm a sucker for old hardware...


Wonder if this one will fit in my suitcase?

This 'goodmorning' mirror was a gift to my grandparents for their wedding.


 You gotta love the ingenious wardrobe solution...


The old 'tapestry' over the bed, and the old cotton mattress my parents used to sleep on.



None of these things have changed as long as I remember the house.

Like the old worn floorboards which creak badly and which are full of gaps and holes that my brother and I used to use to spy on people downstairs. We used to feed fishing line down the holes sometimes and tickle people sitting on the couch or at the table, making them think there were flies around them.

Ah, the old days when we were young and not so sweet...


Downstairs when you look up you see the underside of the floorboards. The huge beam holding up the roof (or floor depending on which side of it you're on) used to the mast of an old ship which sank off the coast of Paros.


I love the old house with its old flaking walls and timber that's almost more paint than timber now.

z

Monday, 1 July 2013

i am greek therefore i dance

I remember the last time I came to Greece. It was three years ago. It had been eight years since I'd been on Paros. Or in Greece at all.

I remember that it didn't take long till my greek had come back to me. By the time I'd left here I was prattling on in greek like it was my first language.

... which it is actually.

I was born in Athens and spoke greek before we immigrated to Australia. Mom likes to say I started talking before I was one year old and haven't stopped since.

So technically, greek is my first language. However, all my formative years were spent in Australia and all my schooling was in english so, in reality, english is my first language. I think, read and write in english, not greek. To me that means english is my real first language.

I don't speak greek at all in Tasmania but a couple of days into the trip and I'm already starting to not only speak like a local, but to have the inflections and expressions as well.

Funny isn't it?

I still find it hard to read some things in greek. For some reason the written greek word is so much more formal than the spoken one. Its almost like a different language to me.

Oh and I absolutely cannot understand the news programs. That IS greek to me.

Yesterday I went to the beach just down from the house on Paros, found an umbrella and sat in the shade. I still managed to toast myself though, cause I spent ages in the water. I was even a little cold outside the water so I had to expose myself to some rays to dry off and warm up...

That's one of the bad things about becoming old. You feel the need to wear a one piece bathing suit. Or others feel the need for you to wear a one piece bathing suit. Whatever. The result is that you're encased in this elastic double layered tube- cause of course you get the slimming bathers which have that 'tummy flattening' inner lining which makes them impossible to get into.. especially when you're sweaty. Its like trying to draw a drinking straw over a sausage...

Only to discover that 'tummy flattening' can only go so far...

But I digress... I was saying that one of the bad things about wearing a one piece bathing suit is that they're so much harder to dry. After I've been in the water twice my towel is so wet I may as well dry myself with sea water.

There was a time when I wore a a postage stamp sized bathing suit which dried in seconds. Now I find I need time in the sun or I get cold before the bathing suit dries. The only solution is to sit in the sun or get back in the water.

I find myself wanting a bikini again.

Oh boy.

Anyway, I was saying that I'd spent about 4 hours on the beach, mostly in the shade and in the water, and I'm already a nice crispy pink. Today I'm avoiding the sun and will go down to the beach around 7pm. I figure the sun won't be biting so hard by then!

Last night my uncle Giorgo, aunty Flora, aunty Marouso and mom took me with them to Aliki (a small town down the road from here) to see some dance demonstrations. They've got a lot of cultural events happening on Paros this year and this was the last day of a 3 day festival in Aliki.

We watched some traditional greek dance clubs strut their stuff on stage. Some were good. One made me want to sleep. Another made me want to slit my wrists.

But 3 out of 5 ain't bad, as Meatloaf says.

The best in my opinion, were the troup from Santorini who danced the island dances I grew up with and a troup from Pontos. Naturally I forgot my camera but I have some links I found on YouTube which show what I mean.

This is balos, the traditional dance of the Cyclades islands where my parents come from. I grew up watching my family dance this and listening to this music.


It explains why I love country music so much - its the fiddle! It took me years to figure that one out. D'uh.

It probably also explains my love of rock'n'roll dancing. The rock'n'roll moves the young couple in front is doing are not part of the traditional dance, but the spinning around eachother - that gorgeous mating ritual type of dance - is what I've always loved about balos.

The other group I loved was the dancers from Pontos. I'd never seen that before. It was great fun to watch though I did think it looked like a cross between Riverdance and the haka.

Judge for yourselves. You really should see the guys doing the shoulder/foot stomping bit from the front to get the haka effect.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wL6RkNN5ZI0

Sorry, can't embed that one for some reason...

There was also a troup which dressed in the traditional costume most people associate with Greece - the white skirted men with pom poms on their shoes.


What does it say about me that I found a couple of those guys particularly sexy?

Meanwhile I found this photo from 1913. Great photo.


The greeks weren't the only men who wore skirts. In fact the Scottish still do. But there was something about that full white skirt on slim hips and those white wool tights on a guy with nice legs which just did it for me.

Enjoy the dances anyway!

z

raiding mom's drawers

While in Athens I'd gone through drawers, boxes and suitcases. Its been a long time since I lived in our home in Athens and there's been a lot of movement in that house. My brother and his family lived there a while, then Peter moved back in with mom... you can imagine. Things have been moved, gone through, packed, moved again, sorted and thrown out. 

I'm lucky to find any goodies at all. However I did manage to find some things I've wanted for a long time. Like dad's slide collection. Sure, I have some photos of my childhood on paper, but most of the photos dad took were on slide. I'm taking the slides back to Australia with me.

Hello excess baggage fees...

I'm also taking one of the projectors though I found two. One is a single slide projector and I'm torn over whether to take that or not. The other is a carousel. Both are light and I'm not even sure they'd survive the delicate handling of our airline baggage handlers, but I want at least one. If it doesn't work I'm not overly concerned. I know a man in Hobart who can fix anything.

One aunt has given me 3 koureloudles (rag rugs) we bought when I went to Egypt with her many years ago. I'd shipped mine to Australia in a chest which was unfortunately put in a container shipping olive oil. One broken bottle and my books and koureloudes transformed into oil sponges. I love the smell of oil oil on a salad, but on rag rugs not so much.

My aunt never used hers so she's given me hers to replace the ones I lost to the great oil disaster of 1989.

I found tons of old photos. Obviously my brother's gone through them and taken some he wanted for himself (first come first served) but lucky for me there's tons he didn't want. Like the ones of the entire family who came to see us off when we left Greece to immigrate to Australia in 1962. Petro wasn't born yet then. I plan to enlarge one of those as they're so tiny I would need a microcope to see the faces.

There's tons from the 70s too of course and all in between as well. Better make room for more stuff...

While rummaging I found my old baptism dress and shoes. Antiques! And mom's old sewing basket. Here are a few of the things from that, buttons on their cards...


I have this idea to make a display which will include some of these old sewing items and a photo of my grandmother. Now if I can find one of my grandfather's net mending needles I'll be set. I can make one for him as well. I have a great photo of the two of them from the 60s. My mom's father was a fisherman and in the old days the women made the nets and the men would mend them when they ripped. Grandpa was always mending nets.

Moms' old pinking shears were still in their box and there were needles in their original packaging.

 
 
Mom said she'd forgotten she had that stuff cause she no longer sews.

I found some old cookbooks... I can't wait to read about new ways with food. I've seen some very old 'exciting new' recipes which looked oh so appetizing. And check out the 15 Ways to Get Your Man With Rice... mmm!
 

I even found the manual for the Kenwood mixer I took when I left home!


Note the old kourelou (rag rag) background!

I really do enjoy going through old things!

This morning I went into Parikia early in the morning and walked around before the shops opened. I'm a bit sunburned from my first day on the beach so I was in desperate need of sunscreen and after sun lotion. Plus my eyes are itchy already. I'm allergic to Paros... Soon as I went to the beach I started itching. This happened last time I was here and it turned into conjunctivitis. Hopefully I can avoid that this time. I got some drops from the chemist and bought a cheap pair of sunglasses - 400 UV whatever that means, darker than my prescription sunnies. Hopefully that'll help. I can't wear my presciption sunnies and read on the beach so I have to take them off, with these I'll be able to have them on all the time.

I'll be like one of the old women on the beach - swimming in my hat and sunglasses...

Oh how the mighty have grown old...

So I'm not on the beach now. I will go later when the sun's not so strong. 

z




on the way to paros

This morning we got up early to take the ferry to Paros. Not early enough though, judging by how full the ferry is. I left mom on the dock to line up for the car and fought my way up the stairs to find seats. We never buy allocated seats (or airplane seats as they're known) cause we prefer to have the freedom to choose where we'd like to sit in the lounge areas or outside on deck.

All very well if you have a choice. Most of the time the ferries are so full you either have to camp on board over night to get a good spot, or get here really early. We didn't get here early enough. All table seating was taken but I found us a spot sharing a large table with a family. Cool.

I gotta say though, driving to Pireaus with mom this morning was a real eye opener. I mean that literally. I was still half asleep, but mom's driving had me wide awake in seconds!

The roads were empty at 6.30am on a Sunday so mom was speeding down narrow streets with cars parked on either side, then zooming down the major roads, pointing out the sights as we went. Taking a hand and her eyes off the road and the brake lights of the taxi ahead of us!

Its bad enough that here in Greece the lines on the road are more a suggestion than lane indicators, there's mom, driving along at 100 kpm looking left and right as she points out this and that, two wheels in one lane and two in another.

I mean, why commit yourself to one lane?

But we made it. The ferry's set sail for Paros, Naxos, Ios, Santorini. I have my Kindle, I have my netbook which is about to die on me cause I didn't charge it, I'm about to go get a coffee. 

All is good in the world.

z